Two years ago, cilantro haters were vindicated. The New York Times ran a story, Cilantro Haters, It's Not Your Fault,
in which Harold McGee, respected food scientist and author, explained
why cilantro really does taste like soap to many people. Turns out, some
folks "may be genetically predisposed to dislike cilantro."
Now,
I'd like to see Harold tackle beets. This vegetable suffers all sorts
of indignities. People say they taste like metal, mud, wood, even dirty
socks. (Dirty socks? Really? That's hard-core beet hate.)
What's behind all this beet antipathy? Is it chemistry? Genetics?
Canned beets? President Obama? (He famously banned them from the White
House garden.)
Unlike the president, I adore fresh beets, which
are at their sweetest from May through September. Some beets,
especially dark red ones, have a sweetness close to sugar, while others
admittedly taste a little like dirt, or as beet lovers prefer, "earthy."
I've
given some thought to this beet bashing, and here's what I've come up
with: canned beets. Other than canned string beans, it's hard to find a
more repugnant vegetable — freakishly iridescent and disturbingly mushy.
Nothing good comes from canned beets.
Many people claim beets
taste metallic. This could be because of the metal can, which studies
have shown tastes like metal. But that doesn't explain why many people
say fresh beets taste like metal. Perhaps it's iron. Beets are high in
iron, which is why they're recommended for people with anemia.
Then
there's dirt. Maybe they taste like dirt because they have not been
properly cleaned and still have dirt clinging to them. Dirt tastes like
dirt. Or it could be geosmin, a compound that gives beets their
distinctive, dirtlike flavor.
Irwin Goldman,
a beet breeder and professor of horticulture at the University of
Wisconsin, is trying to help with the beet-dirt issue. He's working to
breed beets higher in geosmin for people who like that distinctive dirty
flavor, as well as beets lower in geosmin for those who prefer more
sweetness.
In spite of their detractors, beets are experiencing
a culinary heyday. Innovative food bloggers, writers and chefs are
sharing recipes for raw beet salads, beet carpaccio and beet tarts. Beet
confections have blossomed as well, especially mysteriously dark
chocolate-beet cake, cupcakes and brownies. There's even beet ice cream,
on which the jury is still out.
Chefs are smitten with
diminutive, jewel-colored baby beets as well as full-sized gold beets
with their sun-soaked yellow flesh. Is there a hip eatery that does not
serve a roasted beet and goat cheese salad?
Nothing has elevated beets' status as powerfully as Chioggia beets,
also known as candy-stripe or candy-cane beets due to their festive red
and white striations. When they appear at my local farmers market, they
cause traffic jams. (Keep in mind that cooking diminishes their color,
so for the most dramatic presentation, serve Chioggia beets raw.)
When
selecting beets, look for deeply colored, smooth, firm-skinned globes
with the leaves attached. Avoid beets that are soft, shriveled, pitted
or spotted. If storing, cut off the leaves, and trim the stems to about 1
inch. Wrap in paper towel, place inside a plastic bag, and refrigerate
for seven to 10 days.
When you're ready to eat them, wash beets
thoroughly, scrubbing the skin to dislodge any dirt, then cut off the
stem. You can boil, steam, microwave and even grill beets, yet roasting
is the kindest cooking method, as the heat gently caramelizes the
vegetable's natural sugars. Plus, the skins practically slide off after
roasting. Of course, you can also enjoy beets in all their raw glory.
Grated, shaved or sliced paper-thin, they're bursting with color and
crunch.
The red and white striations of the Chioggia, or candy cane, beet.
Susan Russo for NPR
As for the beet greens, whatever you do, don't throw them away
unless they're mildewed, browned or full of holes. Fresh beet greens
should be unwilted and richly colored. They're similar in taste to Swiss
chard and are a delicious alternative to more prosaic spinach.
To
prepare them, cut off any thick stalks. Submerge in a large bowl of
water to loosen the dirt. Drain, rinse and repeat as necessary, then pat
dry. Par-boil them by dropping in boiling water for one minute. Remove
and plunge into a bowl of ice water. "Shocking" the greens will keep
them bright and beautiful. Drain, and store in an air-tight container in
the refrigerator for up to three days. Beet greens are wonderful simply
sauteed in olive oil and garlic, tossed into scrambled eggs and pasta
or added to soups and stews. They're also delicious raw, thinly sliced
and added to salads and sandwiches.
As for flavor pairings,
beets have an affinity for tangy, pungent foods such as goat, blue and
feta cheeses, sour cream, yogurt, horseradish and onions; acidic foods
such as oranges, lemons and vinegars; and smoky foods such as bacon,
smoked fish and smoked meats. They also pair well with legumes,
especially lentils; whole grains such as barley, bulgur and quinoa; and
most nuts, particularly pistachios and walnuts.
If you have a
tenuous relationship with beets, consider starting simply. Roasted beets
sprinkled with good olive oil, salt, black pepper and fresh herbs such
as rosemary or thyme are one of the tastiest ways to enjoy beets. So,
too, is crostini topped with goat cheese, sliced roasted beets, lemon
juice, sea salt and olive oil. Crunchy raw beet salads are an attractive
option as well, especially when tossed with shredded carrots, apples,
raisins and walnuts and coated with a creamy tahini or yogurt dressing.
I
hope folks like Irwin Goldman and Harold McGee shed some light on this
dirty issue soon because clearly it's not on President Obama's agenda.
While I wait, I'll be slurping my beet smoothies, spooning my beet soup
and crunching my beet chips with abandon.
Raw Chioggia Beet Salad With Honey-Lime Vinaigrette
This stunning salad is ideal for summertime alfresco
dining and dinner parties. Enjoy it on its own as a light meal, or serve
alongside grilled fish or meat.
Makes 4 to 6 servings
Vinaigrette
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 tablespoons lime juice
2 teaspoons honey
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
Salad
4
medium Chioggia beets, washed, peeled and cut into matchsticks (about 1
1/4 to 1 1/2 pounds), or another beet variety if Chioggia isn't
available
2 scallions, thinly sliced (about 1/4 cup)
2/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons roasted unsalted or salted pepitas*
Whisk all vinaigrette ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.
Wash
and peel beets. (You may want to wear gloves, as the beets may stain
your hands.) Using a sharp knife, cut into matchsticks. Place beets in
small bowl. Add scallions, cilantro and pepitas, and toss. Add
vinaigrette and toss until well coated. Serve at room temperature.
Variation: Add
diced avocado or crumbled queso fresco, a soft, mild, lightly salted
Mexican cheese available in Mexican specialty markets and most major
supermarkets.
* Available at most major supermarkets and Mexican specialty markets
Red Rice, Roasted Beets And Greens
In this recipe, the beets stain the rice red, hence
the name. It's perfect for picnics and summer cookouts and also makes a
satisfying vegetarian entree.
Makes 4 servings
Rice
1 cup wild rice or brown rice
1 tablespoon olive oil, divided
1 bunch fresh beet greens, washed and sliced
3 medium red beets (about 1 to 1 1/4 pounds), stems removed
2 tablespoons crumbled feta cheese
2 tablespoons unsalted toasted pistachios
Dressing
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
4 teaspoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint, plus extra for garnish
In
a medium pot, bring rice and 2 1/2 cups of water to a boil. Reduce,
partially cover and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the water is
absorbed and the rice is firm yet cooked through.
Place a
large skillet over medium-high heat. Add 1 teaspoon olive oil. Add
sliced beet greens and saute for 3 to 5 minutes or until softened.
Remove from heat.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Wash beets.
Place on a large piece of aluminum foil, drizzle with olive oil and wrap
tightly. Place on a rimmed baking sheet and cook for 50 to 60 minutes,
or until tender when pierced with a knife. Remove from oven and cool.
Rub off the skins and cut into small pieces.
To make the dressing, whisk all ingredients in a small bowl and set aside.
To
assemble the salad, transfer the rice to a serving bowl. Add the cooked
beets, greens and dressing. Toss lightly. Sprinkle with crumbed feta
cheese and pistachios and garnish with thinly sliced fresh mint.
Gingery Roasted Beet And Sweet Potato Soup
Borscht and I have never gotten along, but I've
become good friends with this cheerful soup. The fresh ginger adds
brightness, while the cayenne pepper packs some heat. Though delicious
right away, this soup tastes even better the next day. You could serve
it cold or at room temperature, but its flavors are fullest when heated
through.
Makes 4 servings
3 red beets (about 1 to 1 1/4 pound)
1 large sweet potato, peeled and cut into chunks (about 1 pound)
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, plus 1 tablespoon, divided
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
1 medium yellow onion, diced
2 stalks celery, diced
2 cups low-sodium vegetable broth
Juice of 1 lime
1 tablespoon fresh minced ginger
1/3 cup fresh chopped cilantro
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 (15-ounce) can light coconut milk
Preheat
oven to 375 degrees. Wash and peel the beets and sweet potato, and cut
into 1-inch pieces. (You may want to wear gloves, as the beets may stain
your hands.) Place beets and sweet potato on a large rimmed baking
sheet. Drizzle with 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil, salt and black pepper.
Roast for 25 to 30 minutes or until lightly browned and tender when
pierced with a knife. Remove from oven and set aside.
In a
large pot over medium-high heat, add remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil.
Add onions and celery and saute 5 to 7 minutes, until softened and
lightly browned. Transfer the cooked beets and potato to the pot. Add
the broth, lime juice, ginger, cilantro and cayenne pepper and stir
well. Cook for 10 minutes. Cool for 10 minutes before pureeing. Working
in batches, add soup and coconut milk to a blender and puree until
smooth. For a velvety smooth consistency, you can strain the soup
through a sieve. I like a few tiny bumps, so I leave it as is. Season
with salt and pepper to taste.
Beet Smoothie
This ruby red breakfast smoothie is as healthy as it is eye-catching. You may even get your kids to drink it.
Makes 1 serving
1 small roasted beet, chopped
1/2 frozen banana
1 to 1 1/4 cup milk of your choice, such as almond, soy or low-fat milk, depending on how thick you prefer it
1 teaspoon honey
Mix all ingredients in a blender and puree until smooth. Pour and enjoy.